Robert Geller turned to his native city of Hamburg, Germany for inspiration with his SS16 collection. The airy, sun-bleached collection paid homage to the windy summers of his youth.The textures and fabrics used in the collection like memory nylon that reference sturdy sails are intended to give the wearer optimal comfort and familiarity. The collection’s color palette is reminiscent of the sky’s many colors—midnight navy, indigo, washed out browns and cadmium red—and sea, which was seen especially on garments with wave patterns.The SS16 collection was a continuation of Geller’s fashion narrative and his separation from athletic references. Geller said recently in an interview that he wants to keep his collections comfortable, but take it to a higher level with more tailoring and structure. He continues to bridge this gap through this collection with nylon trench coats and flowing shirts that were accentuated by knitted cummerbunds.It is as if Geller looked to where he has been in his youth, life and in his design career for this collection as he continues to evolve as a designer.
Ariel and Shimon Ovadia continue to bend and break through the confines of men’s tailoring with the Ovadia & Sons SS16 collection. The twin designers have a knack for capturing the essence of New York City, and they did not skip a beat this season. In past seasons, we have seen topcoats, bomber jackets and relaxed, slim suiting that look fit for the daily grind at the office or an early morning brunch. The SS16 collection may possess a more youthful exuberance compared to past seasons, but the quality remained. Shirt had elongated, flowing tails and side zips for a more athletic fit and for a reverse layered look.A few standout pieces from the collection include plaid and solid, unconstructed trench coats that are full length and airy, dress shirts with longer tails and side zips for multiple wears, a mismatch striped sweater and a bold red fishtail parka.Though sporty, the collection keeps the designers’ tailored aesthetic. It explores the idea that your clothes should be comfortable and versatile instead of shopping for single purpose clothing.
Ovadia & Sons:
Anzevino Getty, the brand born from the minds of William Anzevino and August Getty, debuted its SS16 collection at Skylight Studios. Since the brand’s inception in 2013 in Los Angeles, the designers have perfected menswear essentials and simple shapes with the use of luxurious fabrics.The ‘sports meets tailoring’ collection consisted of linen suits, shirts and outerwear, unique patterns on shorts, accessories, and a full suit, bold colored, a leather jacket, a hoodie with leather detail, slim sweatsuits and sleeveless shirts.The tailored pieces are the true standouts in the collection. Though the sporty, off-duty clothing have the fun patterns, the tailoring make a solid case for wearing a suit in the summer heat.The collection was very mellow, almost zen-like as anyone that attended the presentation would feel while looking at videos of palm leaf patterns and listening to Drake and Jhene Aiko’s ‘From Time.’ With just two years in the game, the design duo should be expected to push boundaries and break ground.
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Obi Anyanyu is a fashion writer and stylist living in NYC. Follow him at @ObiAnyanwu