A new chapter of New York Fashion Week has begun. The fashion industry’s elite flocked to Industria Studios for New York Mens Day, the unofficial start of New York Fashion Week: Mens and formerly the unofficial start of the NYFW season altogether.
This season, 12 designers presented their SS16 collections in 2 sessions—6 designers at two separate times. The first session consisted of David Hart, Cadet, CWST, GARCIAVELEZ, Boyswear and PLAC, each with a very unique and distinct collection and aesthetic that transformed the presentation space. David Hart continued to expand beyond the confinements of traditional tailoring with a Bauhaus inspired collection. CWST explored the US’ dangerous landmass, the Mojave Desert, only to emerge with pieces that appear to have withstood the blazing desert sun. GARCIAVELEZ and PLAC collections were in the same vein, but while the former played with blue hues and fluorescents, the latter let its silhouettes exhibit the energy. Cadet continued to reference military garments and styling, but opted for a retro appeal as opposed to the modern aviator. Boyswear stood out the most out of the session with its unique patterns and silhouettes—not to mention its obvious youthful exuberance.
The remaining designers, Carlos Campos, Chapter, Fingers Crossed, Kenneth Ning, Matiere and EPONYMOVS, pronounced Eponymous, took center stage for session two. Carlos Campos continued to prove that “less is more” with another minimal, yet strong collection. Matiere kept things simple by letting unique textures, fabrics and knits speak for the collection. EPONYMOVS showed that rebellion and conformity could find a common ground through tailoring. One stand out piece from the collection was a tiger camouflage fishtail parka that may be the piece of the season. Kenneth Ning, who’s Cadillac Escalade was selected by the company as one of the winning designs by to be displayed at Industria Studios during NYMD, took tailoring in another direction by playing with patterns, unique shapes and illustrations. The final two designers, Fingers Crossed and Chapter best represented the current state of menswear: adventurous, yet self-aware and comfortable, but not complacent. Both designers continued to strengthen the aesthetics of their respective, young brands, which make the future of menswear look even brighter.
Stay tuned for more coverage of the first ever NY Men’s Fashion Week on Style.No.Chaser
Obi Anyanyu is a fashion writer and stylist living in NYC. Follow him at @ObiAnyanwu