Asaf Ganot presented his Brazil inspired SS16 collection off-site at Artbeam. The brand is best known for its luxurious materials and impeccable craftsmanship, and this season Ganot put fabrics from different seasons together for a cohesive statement.The collection references the effortless Carioca culture of Brazil—a meeting of Rio’s beaches and Sao Paulo’s city life. To best express this, Ganot used denim and neoprene combined with Italian and Japanese fabrics, clean and minimal details, and lightweight linens. Ganot referenced the country’s architecture and street-art by incorporating textures, embossing, and zippers.The ex-basketball player taught himself about fabrics, sewing and textures and continues to learn every day as he develops fabrics for his collections. A few standout pieces from the collection include a white, cable knit, short sleeve shirt, and a deep cobalt leather moto jacket with black leather lapels.Ganot continues to learn every day as his experience as a designer grows, and his SS16 collection is proof that he is a great student and teacher.
The Nautica Spring 16 Swim collection was a much needed break from the full SS16 collections presenting at NYFW: Men’s. The 32-year-old, water-inspired brand looked away from aquatic life and life on the water for the swim collection, and it proved to be beneficial.The New York City skyline was a major influence on the swim collection as well as sportswear. Part of the collection consisted of styles best used on land like an electric blue trench coat, vibrant yellow deck parka, a white, Harrington bomber jacket, sweaters knitted with wave patterns and a white fisherman sweater.The other half of the collection featured printed swim trunks and accessories, namely an all-over triangle print on shorts, on a duffle bag and as a dual strip on off white shorts. The nautical theme was prevalent throughout the collection, but the city feel remained.
Designers from different world regions have had their moment in recent seasons. Scandinavian designers led the minimalist sportswear movement that remains the current look. Prior to this, UK-based and Asia-based designers moved to the forefront after reinterpreting streetwear. Today, Americana is experiencing resurgence, one that showcases sportswear and athletic inspired clothing before workwear. Traditional Americana workwear may have fallen to the wayside, but that hasn’t stopped Greg Lauren from pushing the boundaries of workwear design.Lauren, who happens to be the nephew of American design living legend, Ralph Lauren, found his design touch and expertise when he launched his brand, and today he is strengthening his family gift. To the untrained eye, Lauren’s designs are simply Frankenstein versions of his uncle’s classic designs, but what Greg Lauren is up to is redefining American fashion. Streetwear and sportswear had more leeway and freedom for creativity when compared to classic American design, but Lauren is proving that to not be true.His SS16 showed the life of a nomad possibly in the old American west. Styles were modern in construction and design like linen jogger pants and cut-and-sew outerwear, but the soul was very old. Standout pieces in the collection include a cut-and-sew blazer and vest combo that is part herringbone and part thick cotton; a long hoodie and long johns that are cut-and-sewn with thick cotton olive fabrics; overalls that are stitched with pinstripe trousers; and a knee-length, collarless denim shirt. The outfits were long and flowing and hems were frayed for an unfinished appeal.Greg Lauren is busting through the confines of Americana workwear design and continues to show that its not only streetwear that has all of the fun.
Theory presented its SS16 collection next door to its boutique on Gansevoort Street in Meatpacking, and the presentation felt like a party fit one of the hotels in the area. What’s expected from a night at Le Bain or any ritzy, rooftop shindig in the Meatpacking District is suited gentleman and well-dressed women, just the type for Theory.The SS16 collection appeared to be built for comfort with soft shoulders and washed fabrics. Khaki suits disrupted monochrome looks, and tailoring was offset by casual looks and outerwear. The centerpieces of the collection were two tuxedo looks with bowties and the top shirt buttons undone. Men may be shying away from suits for athletic wear, but this collection proves that comfort does not have to be sacrificed for suits.
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Obi Anyanyu is a fashion writer and stylist living in NYC. Follow him at @ObiAnyanwu