deTROIT, the young, New York City-based brand that produces collections in Detroit, presented an unique SS16 collection focused on unconstructed suits and lightweight garments.Designer, Robert Molnar put his tailoring expertise on display with structured suits in white and black and a tuxedo in black, and unconstructed, soft-shouldered suits in washed fabrics and color. The collection was rounded out with sheer shirt styles in sleeveless and long sleeve options, scoop v-necks and long length shirts.
Capsule hosted a group presentation for seven designers that made their NYFW: Men’s debut. The seven designers have made their mark at the Capsule trade show by becoming one of the more popular, sought out brands at the show, and took their talents to the main stage to present their SS16 collections before the show on Monday.The brands, Baartmans and Siegel and Matthew Miller of the UK; Second/Layer, Maiden Noir and Blackfist of the US; CMMN SWDN of Sweden and CAMO of Italy each presented five looks with unique touches that have made them popular at the trade show.
Baartmans and Siegel had a unique camouflage pattern on a white jacket, shirt and shorts each styled in their own looks. Blackfist had two floral print patterned shirts, but the attention-grabber of the collection was a single-breasted overcoat with patchwork under the right chest. The paint splatter on the sneakers was an interesting move as well. CAMO had cropped v-neck shirt styles and a blue belted cardigan that spoke to effortlessness. Second/Layer had a heavy sportswear vibe with a jet-black baseball jersey silhouette button-down shirt and pinstripe shorts, but the standout was the centerpiece look consisting of a trench coat with the brand’s logo on the back. Matthew Miller had delicate looks with paper thin, crumpled shirts, a suit and a trench coat. Maiden Noir and CMMN SWDN each had the most interesting outerwear out of all of the brands with a rich nylon jacket and supple leather jackets, respectively.
The Siki Im SS16 runway show kicked off with a live performance—a singer and an electric guitarist that jammed for the hate and love for New York City. Prior to becoming a fashion designer, Siki was very much enamored by New York City culture, perhaps the perfect reason to show the SS16 collection at the inaugural NYFW: Men’s.The collection was oversized, draped and flowing, and had a life of its own on the wearer. Clothesline belts showed the waistline for most looks that appeared to be one piece. A number of pants were cut-and-sew to show indigo pants or denim with regular cotton fabrics. The collection was primarily a mix of indigo looks and all.over patterns that were complimentary. Two sweaters in pink and black that featured a single, deep side zip were standout pieces, but that shouldn’t take away from the collection entirely. The energy exerted from each look—whether if it had stiff jeans hanging from the models’ seats or not—was felt in the entire room; an energy created by the performance or by New York City itself.
Lucio Castro was one of the last designers to present at NYFW: Men’s. Castro, a film lover and Renaissance man, has looked to movies as inspiration for a number of collections, and this season he looked to the film industry of Nigeria, also known as “Nollywood.”The collection consisted of African patterns and Nigeria’s country colors of green and white. Sophistication was evident; patterns were intricate and tastefully done and referenced the country not just through the use of colors, but by the effortless style and flair. Castro exclaimed that he is a fan of Nigerian movies and his nod to Nollywood was an interesting turn for combining his love affair with fashion and film.
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Obi Anyanyu is a fashion writer and stylist living in NYC. Follow him at @ObiAnyanwu